We visit immigrant-owned restaurants and we bring a crowd. We fill the room — whatever size — and do it in an unusual way, with tables of four or eight, so our guests, the Noshers, are often seated with strangers. Moments of mild discomfort usually lead to evenings of discovery as people get to know one another. We talk about the 3 Cs: Cuisine. Culture. Community.
Dayton was the first Certified Welcoming City in 2017, but our town has long been a magnet for immigrants. Attitudes about immigration and immigrants are problematic lately, but here is a chance to learn and enjoy, to meet our neighbors through the medium of food.
Hussain is from Jordan and Angelica is from Michoacan and together have a little taco and ice cream shop in the Huffman neighborhood near downtown. It’s called La Monarca. It’s a gathering place. They have face-painting parties for neighborhood kids. On weekends they make traditional Mexican soups, and they always sell it all. That’s one way we see community. And by the way, the vanilla ice cream is a revelation.
Solange came here fleeing troubles in Rwanda and she still struggles with English, but her son Angelo makes it all make sense. Together they run SoSo’s in West Carrolton. It’s a little place on South Alex Road, but it is a destination for Dayton’s African community, and they are busy as caterers cooking for all sorts of celebrations in the African community. They bring foods from the homeland that are necessary elements in celebrations. Things made from pumpkins and plantains.
“The people need the right food!” Solange says.
At the end of our Ethnosh, Solange sat down, exhausted after 10 hours in a hot kitchen, and she said, “I am so happy!” and the smile on her face was a perfect illustration.
A lot of the story we’re sharing is about happiness. Happiness is the goal and the purpose of these businesses and the people who run them. These are people who pulled themselves up by their bootstraps. Their stories are All American. They built something from the ground up and it belongs to them. Most corporate owned restaurants are businesses first and only. These Ethnosh shops are lifeworks, community efforts, works of cultural art, all intended to provide a sense of community. They provide a feeling of home.
“Home” might be a lot of places. Not all immigrants cross our southern border. Gulnaz at Village Pizza came to U.S. from roots in Uzbekistan. The food at Village Pizza includes a Turkish menu. The generosity there was endless. She wanted us to try everything. At the end of the Ethnosh she asked, “Why didn’t anyone dance?”
Karlay, her husband Luiz and her brothers Isa and Ricardo recently opened a Mexican restaurant on Springboro Pike, la Poblanita. But first they had a Mexican grocery store. There are cheeses and peppers and certain cuts of meat that are necessary to create authentic flavors, and it’s all there. They are committed to bringing a taste of home to their customers. It is nothing less than art to be able to offer this experience.
Ice cream shops, ethnic groceries, caterers, gathering places. We’ve had a range of experiences. We’ve heard stories of grandma’s kitchen on the other side of the world. We’ve learned about whole populations moving to avoid being swept up in war. We’ve heard from restaurant owners who were rescued by Catholic charities. People we met wandered in the desert and lost companions before they became restauranteurs in Dayton. Ethnosh has proven to be a valuable learning experience. Learn more at EthnoshDayton.org.
Scott Millsop is a VISTA Worker at The Dayton Collaboratory.
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